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No. 25

Eden creates paradise

«The world needs people like Robert Eden who remain true to their principles. The organic pioneer shows that it is possible to make top quality wines while protecting the environment. Daniel Morales from Mallorca also confirms this with his organic white wine of revolutionary quality.»

Renzo Und Dominic@2x

Dominic Blaesi & Renzo Schweri

Founders

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«Welcome to Eden Vineyard!»

Robert Eden – well-traveled winemaker and visionary

Practice makes perfect who wants to become a master. With wine, of course, this is somewhat difficult... But Robert Eden was lucky enough to have grown up in a vinophile family. And so, as a child, the legendary Johnson wine atlas fell into his hands. While Robert's friends were reading Mickey Mouse, he was learning about wine at the highest level. At the age of 12, he was allowed to sniff the wines that his father served to his illustrious guests under his father's guidance.

Barely of age, he was drawn – no wonder! – he was drawn to the wide world of wine. So he found himself in Australia as a so-called «cellar rat». From a jumper and assistant, however, he quickly worked his way up and finally learned the trade with the big names. After years of apprenticeship and travel in Tuscany, Burgundy, Bordeaux, America and Spain, he fell in love with the South of France. He knew immediately that he wanted to live there. But wine freak that he is, he left nothing to chance when choosing his domicile: he tasted hundreds of wines from different localities. Those from Minervois La Livinière were clearly the best. Robert Eden was lucky: a château was for sale, and at a ridiculous price. The Briton did not have to think long and acquired the estate in April 1994, but unfortunately there was a proverbial corpse in the cellar, of which he only got wind in October: The grapes tasted awful. Wine was out of the question. Okay, the weather conditions were miserable. It was just stupid when the story repeated itself the following year – under the best possible conditions. Now it was clear that Robert Eden would have to go in a completely new direction.

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With chrut and carrots to top crops

There's life in the old dog yet. One could almost think that this saying was invented especially for the vines of Château Maris. In fact, they were as good as dead when Robert Eden took over the winery in 1994. The predecessor had done enormous damage to the plants through the massive use of chemicals and machinery. What a pity for the unique soils and the time-honored plants!

Robert Eden nursed the vines back to health with extraordinary dedication. In the process, he made a groundbreaking discovery: «What happens, grows and lives around the vine clearly influences the quality and taste of the grapes.» So today, beets and roses grow among the vines and plowing is done only with the help of a horse. We saw it with our own eyes in February: While all around all vineyards lie brown and fallow, it sprouts in the Eden vineyard in the juiciest green. «It's better for the environment, for the wine and for you!» is the visionary's conviction. Today, the oldest vines at Château Maris are bursting with health and deliver grapes of particularly intense flavor. These treasures are processed with the utmost care, so that Robert Eden can dispense with both fining and filtering. The single-vineyard wine «Les Amandiers» with the 2017 vintage has received a proud 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. We would even go so far as to say that this extravagant high-caliber wine is one of the best wines in the South of France: juicy, fully ripe blackberries meet melted chocolate... Something like this can really only be created in paradise!

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«From the Life of a Persistent Dreamer»

Farewell to a pioneer of Rioja

Luis Cañas, the patron of the Rioja winery of the same name, passed away a few weeks ago at the age of 91. The charismatic winemaker, with whom we shared a long friendship, was an important driving force for his region. He was one of those men and women from the land who, with their effort and ingenuity, paved the way to carry the DOCa Rioja designation of origin to worldwide fame.

Initially, Luis Cañas earned his living as a construction worker, but put most of his wages and all of his free time into the family's small winery. His brothers, like many others, turned their backs on the region and moved to the city. Luis Cañas and his wife Angeles decided to stay and put all their hopes in their own wine. They decided in the early 70s to bottle their own wines and sell them under their own name. An absolute novelty in Rioja Alavesa, where winemaking families usually supplied large producers. What drove Luis Cañas all his life was the search for the perfect wine. «And in this, I think Juan Luis even surpasses me», the winemaker once told us about his son. We will never forget how he spoke with pride of the achievements of his successor or how he appreciated his great-grandson Jon with a sparkling look when he returned from working in the vineyards. May his memory be revived with each of his wines. Over and over again.

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«If you like Primitivo, you'll love Onoro!»

The classic is now also available as a Sunday wine

The numerous Onoro fans can rejoice: After this «sinfully good Primitivo» has been very well received by our customers, now follows another chapter in the success story. We are talking about the new Onoro Old Vines. This high-quality Primitivo is pressed from old vines, which ensures an excellent concentration and complex aromas. What remains the same: It too is «sinfully good» and also has a very good price-quality ratio. Remember: if Onoro is on it, quality is in it.

The grapes for these two wines come from the most traditional areas for growing Primitivo, from the picturesque landscapes around Sava in Puglia. The vines here grow in the form of small trees without any support systems such as wires or stakes. This form of cultivation is as old as it is labor-intensive – and has therefore almost disappeared in recent decades. However, it produces grapes of particularly high quality. The Onoro wines keep this old, glorious wine culture of Apulia in honor.

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«A wine like Frida Kahlo!»

The oldest winery in Chile reinvents itself

The oldest winery in Chile reinvents itself. «Viña Carmen» was the very first winery in Chile. 170 years of history – that makes some wineries freeze. Quite different at «Viña Carmen»! The young, enthusiastic team around winemaker Emily Faulconer takes a playful approach to tradition and likes to reinvent itself – just like Frida Kahlo. «We took inspiration from Frida's passion, sophistication and attitude to create a new style of wine», says Emily Faulconer. Carmen Winery is now honoring this spiritual connection to Frida Kahlo with a limited edition of their Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva.

The Mexican painter continues to exert a tremendous fascination decades after her death. She is regarded as a style icon and symbolic figure of the strong woman. In retrospect, Frida Kahlo's life seems like a tragic sequence of misfortunes: Birth defects, a serious bus accident, miscarriages and repeated heartbreak. Knowing that happiness is only borrowed, the artist threw herself into life: she painted, sang, danced, tried out new forms of life and love. «Have the courage to live, because anyone can die», was the style icon's credo. In this sense: Discover new things and enjoy the beautiful sides of life!

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«The impossible made possible.»

Un vino bianco biologico di qualità rivoluzionaria

When Daniel Morales curves through the vineyards of Es Fangar on his bike, you wouldn't immediately think that this man is just turning the wine world upside down. As chummy and easy-going as the 43-year-old oenologist with ponytail and sunglasses appears – when it comes to wine, he becomes a «complexity freak», as he says himself.

In Flaschenpost magazine No. 22, Daniel Morales caused a sensation with his wines. He has caused storms of enthusiasm especially with his Rosé Twenty Twelve. «Finally, a full-bodied rosé», was feedback we frequently received. Now the likeable winemaker is doing the same. With the white wine Sa Fita, Daniel Morales has succeeded in creating a complex white wine, which shows off the full spectrum of aromas from floral-herbal to fully ripe fruit and honey aromas, while at the same time being refreshing and relatively light. This winemaker always seems to succeed in making what was thought impossible possible.

Holism, by the way, is not only important to the Spaniard when it comes to flavors. Es Fangar is a natural paradise of 1000 hectares, the vineyards occupy only 56 hectares. Solar energy, composting, organic farming and clean mobility help to protect the environment. A real model farm! And the wine? «The Sa Fita 2019 is the best white wine I have ever made», says Daniel Morales. Those who know him and his wines know what that means: Yes not miss!

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