Although the variety is one of the most traditional in Italy, it is still difficult to imagine a Primitivo as more than a simple table wine. For too long, this powerhouse has been abused to give weak dozens of wines from the north a little more color. Castel di Salve's “Cento” exemplifies what happens to the Primitivo if you take it seriously and press it ambitiously: It literally explodes in the mouth, seems to overflow with sheer fruit, juice, strength and aroma. The high alcohol is not enologically forced, but a natural characteristic of the variety. And nowhere could the over 16 percent be better off than in this original Apulian wine.