Sherries are drunk far too rarely in this country, especially such fine forms as the Oloroso Viejo sherry “Villapanés” by Emilio Hidalgo. Oloroso is the most complex stage of sherry. In contrast to Fino, it is sprayed onto 18 percent alcohol by volume from the outset and develops without pile yeast, as it dies off when alcohol is added. The oxidative expansion produces a massive, full-bodied sherry with increasing age. And the alcohol content also rises to 20 percent by volume as a result of slow evaporation.